Science Horizons

Professional and amateur mechanics have been changing out used engines for rebuilt engines ever since tire tracks first appeared on dirt roads. There’s serious pride involved but also a chance to save good money. Set your tools out because here’s how to do it.

Installing a rebuilt engine makes sense for a lot of reasons. But here’s one I’ll bet you haven’t thought of. They usually include upgraded parts that did not come with the original engine they installed. So the reliability of a used engine can actually be better because of those upgrades.

Whether you call it rebuilt, used, re-manufactured, or recycled – it’s yours to tune, tweak, and squeeze more horses out of. Make it as fast and smooth as your talents allow.

I’ve got to tell you, this whole “cash for clunkers” thing kind of irritates me. It’s supposed to be a way to help the environment. But if you ask me, changing out your old engine makes more sense and saves money. Haven’t they been telling us it’s very important to recycle? That will help the environment more by keep more cars on the road to get people to work.

So let’s go over how it’s done by both professinal and amateurs alike. Used engines are sold as longblock assemblies. The engine block, cylinder heads, and all the internal components are there.

Here’s a pre-installation checklist that will help save you a lot of grief.

Heres how to install your remanufactured engine.

1. Flush cooling system prior to installing engine to remove any debris left over the the previous engine. 2. Clean or replace oil strainer and pick screen. 3. Replace oil pan gasket and rear main seal. 4. Drain and replace engine oils to manufacturers suggested levels. 5. Replace the oil filter. 6. Timing belts, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, fluids and seals are routine maintenance items and should be replaced at the time of installation and at the vehicle manufacturers recommended service intervals. 7. Replace any water hoses or vacuum lines that need replacing. 8. Prior to starting engine prime oils system and check to be sure you have oil pressure. 9. Proper operation of the cooling and electrical system must be checked during the installation of products that can be affected by those systems. 10. Replace valve cover gasket as needed. 11. Install new belts and hoses.

Call up your best girl and go cruising.

Larry Hendricks Hobbies auto engines, Car Engines, crate engines, do-it-yourself, Hobbies, how to install engines, mechanics, re-manufactured engines, rebuilding engines, rebuilt engines, transmissions, used engine installation, used engines

When you’re waiting at a traffic light, stop sign, or any circumstance in which your car idles, that is when the engine produces the lowest level of emissions it ever will. Idling is critical for your vehicle’s engine to remain in operation without requiring fuel. Unfortunately, problems manifest; engines can die while idling. The challenge is determining the root cause.

There are several steps you can take to help diagnose the issue, which I’ll explain below. It’s worth noting you’ll need a few diagnostic tools. If you’re not willing to purchase them and spend some time exploring your car’s engine, you may be better served by having a mechanic look at it.

#1 – Test The Fuses

Follow the easiest and least expensive path first. In this case, that involves testing the fuses. To do so properly, you’ll need a test light. There’s a rod with a bulb attached on one end and a clamp on the other end. If the fuses are sound, the bulb will light up.

#2 – Scan For Codes

When anything goes wrong inside your car’s engine, your vehicle will generate and store a diagnostic code. That code will provide a valuable clue regarding why your engine is stalling out. You’ll need to use a special scanner or reader to access the code. If you don’t own a scanner, you can usually purchase one for under $100 at your local auto supply store.

#3 – Check The Hoses

In order to continue idling properly, your car’s engine relies on the vacuum supplied by a number of hoses. For example, a hose provides vacuum to the intake manifold. If there are any leakage or breaks in that hose, it can cause your engine to stall.

Check for any splits or ruptures that might be affecting the vacuum. If possible, have someone lightly place pressure on the gas pedal while you’re looking under the hood. The reason is because the leaks will often be difficult to see, especially if they’re on the underside of the hoses. Pressing on the gas pedal often produces a whistle that makes finding – and fixing – leaks easier.

Start With The Easiest Factors

There are a number of other tests you can perform to figure out why your engine may be stalling. For example, you may want to check the idle air control motor, look for tar build-up, and test whether the EGR valve is failing. The culprit might even be a malfunctioning torque converter that is preventing the clutch shoes from disengaging properly.

Having said that, the three items above are the easiest to check and least expensive to fix. Test the fuses, scan for diagnostic codes, and check the hoses for leaks. Unless you have a significant amount of auto repair experience, the other potential issues should be handled by a trained mechanic.

Brad Johansine Cars and Trucks autos, Car Engines, cars, Cars and Trucks, vehicles